THE TIME IS NEAR---

Well almost.  My fingers are saying let's get going, but my mind says, slow down, this is not the time for tomatoes, cukes or zinnias.

It is the right time to get your seeds and their needs in order.  Do the hard coated seeds need special treatment?  If so, what is the treatment and are you familiar with the process?

Most hard coated seeds need either scarification, stratification or a presoaking of the seeds to allow water to penetrate the coating.  The terms scarification and stratification can be confusing.

Scarification creates a small opening in the seed coat.  The opening can be accomplished by gently rubbing the seed with sandpaper being careful not to rub too deep.  It can also be accomplished by nicking the seed with nail clippers.  Check out the guide offered at http://www.seedsavers.org/site/pdf/HardSeed Guide.Final.pdf  for the correct  area of the seed to make the cut.  Wrapping masking tape (sticky side out) around the jaws of needlenose pliers will hold the seed in place to make the cut.

Stratification is the chilling of seeds to promote germination.  It is recommended that the seeds have some moisture before the chilling begins.  Moisten a double-folded paper towel, place the seeds, fold over, place in the refrigerator to chill for the recommended period of time.  The seeds would then be planted to the garden. This is a process used for seeds that could have been planted in the fall and would break dormancy in the spring.

A second stratification method would be to pre-moisten a container of seeding mix, plant the seeds according to directions and cover with a plastic dome or plastic wrap that is secured to the planting tray with tape.  The tray could go in the refrigerator (not freezer) for the recommended period of cold treatment or could be placed outside in a protected area where it won't receive any heavy rain or snow damage.  The tray would have to be monitored for moisture content.

Presoak seeds

The terms of presoaking seeds and presprouting seeds can also be confusing.

Presoaking seeds before planting can be beneficial for some seeds.  Parsley, carrot , beet, or other slow-germinating seeds are often soaked in a jar of warm water overnight.  When ready to plant, drain the seeds.  Tiny seeds should be mixed with a dry substance like sand or coffee grounds so they don't clump together.  The recommended time span is generally 12 hours.  Long soaking can reduce the seeds viability.  I usually presoak my sugar snap seeds overnight but make seed tapes for carrots using a water soluble glue and biodegradable paper.    Stripes of the local newspaper work well as long as there are no color photos.  The seed tape eliminates the presoaking and goes directly to the garden when the time is right.

Presprout seeds

To presprout seeds, place them on a damp double layer of paper towels or napkins making sure that no two seeds touch.  Carefully roll up the towel and place in a labelled plastic bag.  The moistened towel can also be laid on a plate and covered with plastic wrap.  Place the bag or plate in a warm place.  Check the seeds daily.  Seeds need a certain amount of oxygen and the daily small amount of air that waifs in when you seek a peek will do them good.  Monitor root growth making sure the roots aren't growing into the paper towel.  Plant the seeds in a container large enough to maintain growth until the plant goes into the garden.  Set pots immediately under lights or on you sunniest window sill.

Presprouting seeds is also an excellent way to test viability of your seeds leftover from years past. 

Perhaps these various processes will help you organize a seed starting and method schedule.  In organizing my seed packets I discovered that my milkweed seeds, Asclepias syriaca, needs a cold treatment of 30 days prior to planting to the garden.

I guess there are some chores to be done to satisfy the urges. 

Mark your calendar to listen to the Gardening: Get Good at It "Seed Packets are Mini-Reference Guides" segment on Tues. March 16 on KPOV 88.9 FM between 9-9:30 am